The Hurrunganes

The expansive Hurrungane massif in the west of Jotunheimen is one its most impressive. Huge ice-smoothed cliffs soar to razor sharp ar?tes, themselves climbing to countless jagged peaks.

This trek splits two distinct areas in the ?Home of the Giants?, gentler and graceful Fanneraken to the north (although still topping 2,000m), and the spectacular spires of the main Hurrungane body to the south.

The track climbs steadily from the Sognesfjell road through Helgedalen, with a first night atop Fannaraken in a DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association) hut ? fully staffed, and full meals provided. (Make sure to book.) Landscapes move from idyllic alpine meadows into Fannaraken?s sweeping, snowbound mountain tops. Small lakes high atop this traverse glisten in the pristine frozen light.

Day 2 descends into Utladalen, through Keisarpass immediately below Keisaren (1,741m), and down under Hurrungane?s hulking giants to your right (south). Spilling from Gjertvassdalen into wide and deep Utladalen, hemmed in by icy mountains on all sides, it is a relatively short and easy distance to Skogsdalsboen hut (another DNT), through blue Snow Gentians, Mountain Forget-me-nots, and Alpine and Rock Speedwells.

Day 3 is a matter of choice: either your penultimate, or final day?s trekking. To prolong your hike, leave what gear you have behind in the hut and bag a peak ? Friken, further south down Utladalen?s glacier-carved valley. Although ?only? (1,503m), there are fantastic panoramas all round, and views deep into the Hurrungane massif across the valley?s gulf. To the north-east, high, destructive glaciers; and directly north up Utladalen, myriad smaller and larger and slate-grey or emerald lakes at its mouth.

Day 4 (day 3 if you ignore Friken): the gentle plod down Utladalen and past various lakes (above), before finishing back on the Sognefjell road at Krossbu.

The Scandinavian Mountains map is a fantastic resource for designing an extended itinerary in this area.

See Jotunheimen for extensive practical information applicable to this walk.