Five waterfalls, the Knuckles

The Knuckles, in the Highlands north-east of Kandy, really are rather extraordinary, a long ridge of hard ancient metamorphic rock towering over gorgeous tea-cloaked foothills, often absurdly steep-sided, with rare paths scrambling up through thick and rich forest between cliffs and waterfalls. The range harbour famous biodiversity.

The thin-soiled, wide ridgetop is covered in low shrubs and patches of trees, although will sometimes be walking on bare rock. You may have clear, hot skies and huge views, or you may be wrapped in thick, swirling cloud. Good luck! 

This walk is a stunner, an 8-9 kilometre, five hour horseshoe up to the high ridge via a series of waterfalls, with some time with the views and extraordinary high world before getting back down to the tea plantations.

It starts at the top of an estate track so steep and rough that we had to swap our car for a tuktuk at the attractive tea village of [   ]. Amazing vehicles. 

You start with a really beautiful steady climb through abandoned tea plantations, gazing out across the elegant tea bowl (sorry) around you. Then it is the hard stuff, a very steep climb – hands needed at times – through thick and fascinating montane jungle, gaining (we guess) some 2,500 feet uncomfortably. It would be registering into “miserable” were it not for the three major and two minor waterfalls that you turn off to admire. The best moment is on a large platform above the top of the last one (vast views out over the foothills) – no slipping, please – with a spectacular falls above. Their high rims and trees framed rapidly scudding clouds when we were there. Gorgeous.

The trail eventually gets a bit less steep, and the vegetation rapidly shrinks as a lip of sorts is reached. The steady upper slopes are a joy – easy walking on patches of bare rock between rough grasses, low shrubs and stands of low trees. If it is sunny, you are in for a huge treat as you reach the ridgetop and see the highest cliffs away across a gap. 

Turn left to follow the ridge for maybe a km through thick bush with clearings from which you have huge views of the highest Knuckles and their cliffs. We had a picnic on a rock-with-a view.

Turning back, you will follow the ridge southish, back above the waterfalls turning and into the thick, festooned cloud forest. A long steady descent gets you out to a view on along the Knuckles’ lesser-but-lovely continuations. A final steeper 20 minutes gets you to a sleepy village and the transport you will have needed to pre-arrange. A real delight.

This is a tough walk in high, remote mountains with unpredictable weather and unclear paths.  Come carefully prepared. Guides are compulsory for the high ground, and a very good idea.

Please help us by making suggestions and sending photos! Thank you!

For more information and photos, including detailed practical information and some warnings, see our Knuckles and Central Highlands walk pages.