Tour du Mont Blanc

DICK EVERARD'S TOUR DU MONT BLANC DIARY – SEPTEMBER 2011

Introduction

This is the diary of Dick Everard who walked the TMB from Les Houches to Chamonix in an anti-clockwise direction, between 5th and 15th September 2011, with his son Thomas, his friends Richard and Ray, and joined for the first four days by Richard’s son Chris. We were 63, 35, 67, 66 and 42 years old respectively.

The elder members of the party had spent some time getting into condition before attempting the walk. Training included doing some longish distance walks of 18 miles, walks of around 6 or 7 miles on a regular basis twice a week. We carried rucksacks weighing between 10 and 15kg for most of the training walks. In the last month, we did some regular (daily) uphill walks of varying lengths but not less than 30 minutes.

On the walk, I carried about 10kg including water plus our lunch or lunches which consisted of bread, saucisson, cheese, dates, dried apricots and dark chocolate. We sometimes had to carry enough for two days although the bread would not really last this long. We found enough places along the route to replenish our supplies every two or three days. We stayed in mountain refuges, gîtes and hotels.

All of us carried walking poles, although Tom and Chris only ever used one pole. We didn’t carry sleeping bags but carried lightweight silk sleeping bag liners (which were fine). Tom did carry a sleeping bag on the basis that someone might need one if an accident should occur, but these are really unnecessary; a sleeping bag liner would have been sufficient (except obviously in an emergency, and we all carried survival bags anyway). As much of our clothing as possible was lightweight and quick drying, stuff that wicks moisture away, keeping one dry when walking in the heat, and is easy to wash and dry.

One of the joys of undertaking such a walk in Europe is that, despite the fact that mountain refuges might sound austere, they are comfortable, warm, had plenty of beer (nearly always) and wine, and provided good quantities of excellent food. They also allowed one to meet and talk to fellow walkers in convivial surroundings. Hot showers were the rule rather than the exception although occasionally there was a charge of a couple of Euros. Toilet facilities were adequate although sometimes Asian in style.

Most of our planning had been based on the Cicerone Guide “Tour of Mont Blanc” by Kev Reynolds and also the Trailblazer Guide “Tour du Mont Blanc” by Jim Manthorpe. We also carried the IGN 1:25,000 maps 3531 ET and 3630 OT but these were rarely (if ever) needed for route finding. I will say that neither of the guides is as good as those produced by Paddy Dillon for Cicerone.

The walk covered a total of some 100 miles with ascents totalling about 34,000 feet or put another way 6.5 miles, descents of 29,000 feet or 5.5 miles. We completed the walk in a total of 8½ days (assuming 5th, 10th and 14th as half days) but, of course, we didn’t do the final leg into Les Houches, which would have made it 9 days. The average distance over the 8½ days was 11 miles with average ascents and descents of about 4000 feet and 3411 feet respectively. Despite the fact that we didn’t do the last section into Les Houches, I am surprised that all of the guidebooks seem to be based on a ten day walk as even at our age, it wouldn’t have been difficult to complete the walk in eight days but it would be dependent on refuges being open!

(I should perhaps here admit that we did not complete the whole TMB finishing at Le Brevent on the last day and catching the cable car into Chamonix, as will be explained in the diary entry for 14th September.)

The total times given below are measured from leaving one refuge to arriving at the next and thus include all stopping time; they are neither the times of the faster or slowest member of the group.

TMB Day 1 – Monday 5th September 2011

Les Houches (3304ft) to Refuge du Fioux (4987ft)

Ascent 2188ft; 3 miles

Total time 2 hrs 15 mins

Awoke at about 2.45am, cup of tea and got dressed and left Quorn at 3.05am. Picked up Richard and Chris at 3.15am in Woodhouse Eaves and Ray in Rothley at 3.25am. Not much traffic on the motorway although jammed up at the airport, which we reached at about 5.00am and dropped off the car. No cling film wrap operating at the airport so our rucksacks were put into special baggage. Had a bacon ciabatta and a cup of tea before boarding. Took off just after 7.15am and arrived at Geneva slightly early at about 9.45am.

Caught our Alpybus taxi, which left the airport at around 10.15am. Met some friend’s of Richard’s, Mike and Anne, a farmer who hunts with the Belvoir and Quorn and who have a chalet in Les Contamines. The Alpybus cost 23.5 Eros each from Geneva Airport to Les Houches. We arrived in Les Houches at about 11.30am to find Tom waiting (in the rain) outside the bar Le Delice. We had a coca cola before walking down to the centre of Les Houches to buy some provisions: saucisson, cheese and bread. We then had lunch with a beer at a small bar (54 Euros) before heading off up to Col de Voza at about 1.15pm.

We started off in light rain with full waterproofs but as can be seen above, we soon took these off and ended up walking in tee shirts. A steep stiff climb up a gravel track and we reached Col de Voza (5423ft) at about 3.15pm and continued down to the Refuge du Fioux, which we reached at about 3.30pm. Had a couple of beers before having a nice hot shower although we had to put tokens in a meter (a Euro for 2 minutes), shaved and washed some clothes. Then read for 30 minutes and dozed before going down for a glass of wine at 6.30pm. Then an excellent dinner at 7.00pm of soup, omelette with lardon and potatoes with a green salad followed by a greek style yoghurt, coffee and more red wine. We were joined at dinner by a Dutch couple that was camping at the refuge with an Alsatian dog (or should I call it a German Shepherd dog?). Off to bed at around 8.30pm and read briefly before sleeping very well. Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner, showers and all drinks was 47.50 Euros each.

TMB Day 2 – Tuesday 6th September 2011

Refuge du Fioux (4987ft) to Chalet Nant Barrant (4790ft)

Ascent 3838ft; Descent 4323ft; 12.5 miles

Total time 8 hrs 55 mins

Up at 6.30am for breakfast of coffee, bread, butter, jam and fruit juice (raspberry?). Left the refuge at about 7.50am and reached the Col de Voza at about 8.05am, stopped briefly before heading up to the Col de Tricot. Stopped on the suspension bridge over the river flowing from the Glacier de Bionnassay and then continued climbing with one further brief stop just before reaching the top. Arrived at Col de Tricot (6955ft) at about 10.30am.

We stopped briefly to take some photographs and then headed down a long steepish descent to the Chalets de Miage (5085ft) which we reached about 11.30am. We had a couple of beers and shared a Myrtle Tart, which was excellent. Chatted to some fellow walkers, Australians so mainly about cricket! A beautiful place to stop and rest in the sun and a delightful refuge. Left the Chalets de Miage around 12.15pm and up a short steep section to Auberge du Truc (5643ft).

We reached the high point slightly above the Refuge du Truc (5643 ft), headed down the path and past the refuge and stopped for lunch of saucisson, cheese, bread and tomatoes beside the track at about 1.15pm. Then down a nice path through the woods to Les Contamines (3829ft) arriving at about 2.15pm.

Stopped for a beer and waited for the shops to open so that Ray could buy gloves and a sleeping bag liner as he had inadvertently left these behind. We also bought some bread, tomatoes and chocolate at the supermarket, which, like the sports shop, didn’t open until 3.00pm. Started off up the path along the Nant River to Notre Dame de la Gorge. The path was flat and wide for about 3 miles up to the point where we reached Notre Dame de la Gorge (3970ft) – so for an hour we only climbed 140 feet. We stopped briefly before heading up a steep rocky track (used by some vehicles) to reach the Chalet Refuge Nant Barrant at about 4.45pm. We had a large beer before having a shower and washing some clothes. Down for dinner at 7.00pm of soup, cheese, lamb (or was it beef!) with dauphinoise potatoes followed by apple tart. All with a couple of pichets of red wine. It was quite a chilly evening and the fire had been lit in the dining area. Had a coffee (espresso) after dinner, which was probably a mistake as I didn’t sleep at all well. Off to bed around 8.30pm and read for 20 minutes or so. Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner and all drinks was 44.20 Euros each.

TMB Day 3 – Wednesday 7th September 2011

Chalet Nant Barrant (4790ft) to Refuge des Mottets (6135ft)

Ascent 4219ft; Descent 2874ft; 8.75 miles

Total time 7hrs 20mins

Up at 6.30am and down to breakfast at 7.00am of cornflakes (two helpings), café au lait, bread, butter and jam, Ready for off at about 7.40am.

After a short steep section above the refuge, the path was relatively gentle until we reached the Refuge de la Balme (5597ft). We stopped briefly beside the refuge and again a couple of times before we reached the top of the Col du Bonhomme (7641ft) after quite a long steep stretch. Tom reached the top at about 9.50am, myself at 10.00am and the others at about 10.15am. We rested briefly and ate some chocolate, dates and dried apricots sheltering from threatening rain in the little shelter until about 10.45am. The rain continued but it wasn’t sufficient to require full waterproofs although we did wear our anoraks for a while. Quite an easy level path around the hillside to the Col du Croix to Bonhomme (8015ft) which we reached at about 11.30am. We only stopped briefly as it wasn’t warm and there was still a threat of rain. We headed up to the Col du Fours, not being tempted to walk downhill to the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme some 150 feet below us. It started to rain a little harder as we set off from the col so we stopped to put on anoraks and water proof trousers.

We arrived at Col du Fours (8743ft) at about midday and because of a stiff cold wind didn’t linger for very long. Tom had been waiting a few minutes at Col du Fours when I arrived and headed off soon after I arrived. I waited for the others before heading down the scree slope to catch up with Tom and tell him we wanted to have lunch as soon as we could find some shelter. It took me about 15 to 20 minutes to descend about 1300 feet.

The others took about 30 minutes including their stop at the col.

Our lunch spot, which we reached at about 12.45pm, although quite exposed, was sheltered from the wind. We were joined by Nils, a 21 year old Belgian and Anna, a 35 year old Canadian who had been at the Chalet Refuge Nant Barrant the night before where they had met. We ate our lunch of bread, saucisson, cheese and tomatoes but didn’t stop long because it wasn’t particularly warm.

A party of young soldiers was abseiling on rock slopes above us while we had lunch and they started off down to Villes des Glaciers at about the time we set off again after lunch i.e. about 1.15pm. It was now a relatively easy descent towards Villes des Glaciers which we reached at about 2.30pm. The path was steep to begin with but not too difficult before it levelled out alongside a mountain stream. We walked past a large herd of cows and down into the valley to reach Villes des Glaciers (5869ft).

We continued up the gentle track to reach the Refuge des Mottets (6135ft) at around 3.00pm, well I say gentle but the 266 foot rise meant a couple of steep sections. Tom and I had a couple of large beers whilst the others showered. We then went off to shower in what appeared to be a relatively new toilet and shower block whilst the others had a litre of red wine (a little rough). Showered, washed some clothes and shaved. We all rested on our bunks for a while. It was quite cold outside despite the fact that the sun was threatening to come out and we needed several blankets to keep warm. After being woken by what by all appearances was a coach party (leaving the door wide open and letting in a cold wind), we went up to the restaurant area and had a pichet of wine before an excellent dinner of soup (two helpings), sausage, ratatouille and rice, cheese and a rather stodgy pudding with the alternative of greengages. Off to bed at around 8.30pm and read for a while. Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner and all drinks was 49.60 Euros each.

TMB Day 4 – Thursday 8th August 2011

Refuge des Mottets (6135ft) to Rifugio Maison Vieille (6417ft)

Ascent 3766ft; Descent 3569ft; 13 miles

Total time 6 hrs 50 mins

Up at 6.30am and breakfast at 7.00am of café au lait, bread, butter and jam. I had a bad migraine style headache and despite a couple of paracetomol felt slightly nauseous all morning. I think, perhaps, that the red wine was a little rough. We started off at 7.40am on a steady but steep climb to the Col de la Seigne (8256ft) and the Italian border.

The guide books said 60-90 minutes and the sign post by the refuge said 1 hour 55 minutes but Tom made the top at 8.50am i.e. after 70 minutes and me about 10 minutes later with the other arriving at about 9.20am thus the slowest person made it in 1 hour 40 minutes i.e. 15 minutes less than the sign post suggested – we found this fairly typical of the times given on the sign posts although one couldn’t always guarantee it. We didn’t stay long on the col as it was very windy and Tom was getting quite cold.

We stopped off at a new building which had a small room in which one could shelter in bad weather but which also had a veranda where we could sit in the sun out of the wind. I failed to make a note of the name of the hut and it isn’t mentioned in either of the guidebooks. We moved off from this building at about 10.00am having rested for about 15 minutes and soon reached a point below the Rifugio Elisabetta (earlier than expected).

We didn’t stop off at the refuge as it would have meant a short climb and it didn’t look particularly inviting – Nils and Anna confirmed that it wasn’t when we met them later that afternoon. We continued down into the valley and along a causeway across what had once been a lake dammed by the moraine from Glacier du Miage. Tom and I stopped beside the Lac de Combal (6398ft) at about 11.00am to watch numerous trout rising and waited for the others. We set off again at about 11.30am - an unexpected climb – continuing upwards for about 80 minutes to above 7500 feet where Tom and I waited for some time. When the others arrived at about 1.00pm, we went on a few yards to get out of the wind and finished our bread (not much), saucisson and cheese.

We headed off again at around 1.15pm on a nice gentle path to arrive at the Rifugio Maison Vieille (6417ft) at around 2.30pm.

Tom a little earlier and the others at about 3pm. Sat in deckchairs and drank several beers in the sun with small snacks including whole cloves of garlic in olive oil with a dash of chilli. Very pleasant with fantastic views and also the realisation that we only had a couple of days walking the next day.

Had a shower but didn’t bother to wash any clothes as we would have plenty of time in Courmayeur. I went outside again for another beer sitting in the sun, although it was slightly cloudy there was enough sun to still be warm at 6.00pm. Into dinner at 7.00pm. Started with some assorted cold meats, (antipasti), followed by spaghetti with tomato sauce, then pork and haricot vert, then an apple with a delicious tiramisu to finish followed by an espresso coffee and all washed down with plenty of red wine.

Off to bed at around 9.0pm and read for a while. Tom and Chris stayed up until about 11.00pm. Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner and all drinks was 59.40 Euros each. The increase over previous nights wasn’t because we were now in Italy, more because we arrived early at the refuge and drank slightly more than on previous evenings.

TMB Day 5 – Friday 9th September 2011

Rifugio Maison Vieille (6417ft) to Courmayeur (4022ft)

Ascent nil; Descent 2395ft; 3 miles

Total time 1 hr 15 mins.

Up at about 7.00am and shaved before breakfast of fruit juice, muesli, yoghurt, fruit, bread, butter and jam and café au lait. Spent some time whilst Richard sorted out his rucksack giving a lot of surplus items to Chris. At the end of the exercise, he had reduced the weight of his rucksack from 15kgs down to about 11.5kgs. Chris’s rucksack (for his return to the UK) now weighed almost 17kgs. Anna kindly took some photographs of us together.

We left the refuge at about 9.15am and headed down a steep path to Dollone and then Courmayeur, which we reached at about 10.30am. It was quite hot when not walking in the shade of the trees. On reaching Courmayeur, we went to the Tourist Information Office where Chris booked his bus ticket to Geneva leaving at around 4.00pm and we enquired about spaces at the Hotel Edelweiss. We walked up to the hotel and checked in, leaving our rucksacks and boots (the rooms weren’t ready) and at about 11.0am headed off into town to find a café for coffee (cappuccino) and a couple of beers. At midday, we headed back to the hotel to unpack, shower and change.

Found a pleasant restaurant with an outside table in the shade (it was too hot in the sun) and had an excellent lunch of charcuterie for some whilst Tom and Chris had a large pizza each all washed down with a couple of bottles of Bardalino Rose. After a coffee, we headed back to the hotel again where Tom and I had a rest and Richard and Ray went to see Chris off at the bus station. Richard had a hair cut on the way back to the hotel!

Richard and Ray had managed to get their washing into the hotel laundry before the laundress went off duty. Tom and I put our washing into the machine at around 4.20pm; it didn’t finish until 6.30pm! After dealing with the washing, Tom continued to rest whilst I walked into town to get provisions and find out when the bread shops opened in the morning. Not before 8.00am except for the supermarket which opened at 7.30am but it was someway downhill so I bought some bread in the afternoon. Back to the hotel and had a nice bath but unfortunately the water was only tepid by the time Richard had a bath and cold by the time he had finished. Ray waited until we came back from dinner.

We went downstairs and had a beer outside the hotel, took a little time to get served.

Then out for dinner and had a very nice meal. I had ham and melon followed by Spaghetti Mediterranean (tomatoes, basil and garlic). The others had cold meats followed by Spaghetti Carbonara. Then back to the hotel where I had a coffee with Tom and then to bed. We had taken an apartment with three rooms and a bathroom but it meant Tom and me sharing a double bed, however cheaper than taking two rooms and they didn’t have two rooms with twin beds anyway. To bed at about 10.00pm. Total cost for the hotel including bed and breakfast, coffee and drinks, lunch and dinner was 105 euros each.

TMB Day 6 – Saturday 10th September 2011

Courmayeur (4022ft) to Rifugio Elena (6765ft)

Ascent 4467ft; Descent 3201ft; 10 miles

Total time 7 hrs 40 mins

Up At 6.45am and shaved and packed ready for breakfast at 7.30am. Yoghurt, fruit juice, bread, butter, jam and pain au chocolate with café au lait. Left the hotel at about 8.20am getting some more cash on the way through town. A sunny day but we were mainly in shade for our walk up to the Rifugio Bertone (6526ft), a steep stiff climb through trees and we reached the refuge at about 10.00am.

We had an iced tea (not very cold) at the refuge and headed off on an easy level path for just over two hours reaching Rifugio Bonatti (6644 feet) at about 12.30am (I note that Walter Bonatti, a well known and respected mountain climber died aged 81 on 13th September).

We stopped for a beer (Tom and I) at the refuge whilst Richard and Ray had a lemon drink and a glass of white wine.

We set off again at about 1.00pm and then stopped after about 15 minutes for lunch of bread, saucisson, cheese and chocolate. Lay in the sun and didn’t move off again until around 1.45pm. Once again a level easy path until we dropped down to Chalet Val Ferret after about an hour (very busy with day trippers) and then we had an hour’s climb to Rifugio Elena (6765ft) which we reached at around 4.00pm more or less all at the same time. Tom got there first and had the last normal beer and we were left with a white beer (8%) which whilst OK was not as good as ordinary beer and a little strong. We also had an iced tea, very refreshing and more so than the white beer.

We showered, washed our clothes and shaved (no hot water for washing clothes although the showers were excellent). We then shared a bottle of wine sitting in the sun having joined Nils and Anna. Anna’s feet were in a bad way having bought new boots in Courmayeur that had given her blisters on her heels. I then went inside to write up my diary. Had a couple of coca colas as no beer worth drinking and feeling a little dehydrated after the hot sunny day.

An excellent dinner as usual of Spaghetti Napolitano (tomatoes), followed by pork with ratatouille and polenta followed by blackberry tart with a carafe of red wine and followed by a coffee (for me) and a Genepi for all of us. Off to bed at about 9.15pm. Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner and all drinks was 63.50 Euros each.

Not sure why the price was so much higher than other mountain refuges unless it was the price and amount of white wine drunk.

TMB Day 7 – Sunday 11th September 2011

Rifugio Elena (6765ft) to Champex (4810ft)

Ascent 2932ft; Descent 5688ft; 17 miles

Total time 8hrs 40 mins

Up at 6.30am to breakfast at 7.00pm of cornflakes, bread, butter and jam with café au lait.

Away at 7.35am, a little sun but cloud was building on top of the mountains.

There was as long haul up the mountain to Grand Col Ferret (8323ft) most of the time in cloud. Reached the top just after 9.00am and headed down quickly out of the cold wind. Came out of the cloud about 9.30am and we had some sun on the walk down to La Peule (6795ft). We stopped briefly before heading downhill towards Ferret (5594ft) and La Fouly (5282ft). We arrived at La Fouly at around 11.00am and stopped for a coffee sitting on deckchairs in the sun,

We set off again at around 11.35am downhill all the way to Praz de Fort (3776ft) where we were expecting a small bar to be open but it and the only hotel were closed. The village itself seemed quite busy with several households having Sunday lunch on their verandas but it was probably more of a holiday resort with few locals. It was now about 1.00pm so we walked a short way out of the village and sat beside the road to have our lunch. We finished our lunch of bread, saucisson, cheese and chocolate and lay in the sun briefly before heading on towards Champex. Passed through Les Arlaches (3665ft) at about 1.30pm, a sign in the window of a small bar said, ”Closed for the season, reopening in July 2012”.

We eventually found a bar open in Issert (3297ft), a small village just before we turned off the road to climb up to Champex (4810ft). We stopped for a beer and started off again at about 3.15pm. Climbing all the way through forest but not excessively steep although by now we had walked a long way and we were beginning to feel tired. We arrived in Champex at about 4.15pm, not very bright weather so we didn’t see the lake and it’s surroundings at its best. Walked past most of the shops, gîte and hotels before finding the Pension en Plein Air that I had read was friendly and welcoming. They had space in their dortoirs so we booked in, took our rucksacks upstairs and went outside for a large beer. It started to rain so I went off for a shower, which was excellent, and so down to dinner at 7.00pm. Salad with what looked like Lasagne followed by beef bourguignon (or something similar), mashed potatoes and peas and then ice cream and coffee all with a litre or two of red wine. Had a Genepi before retiring to bed where I read briefly before going to sleep around 9.00pm. Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner and all drinks was 75.60 Euros each – the prices increasing now that we were in Switzerland.

TMB Day 8 – Monday 12th September 2011

Champex (4810ft) to Trient (4196ft)

Ascent 2526ft; Descent 2886ft; 11 miles

Total time 6 hrs 40 mins

Up at 6.20am for breakfast of muesli, orange juice, bread, butter and jam with café au lait at 7.00am. Cornflakes, bread, jam and café au lait. I then walked down to the supermarket which opened at 7.30am to get some saucisson, cheese and chocolate and then to the Boulangerie for bread. Away from the Gîte at around 7.50am, slightly downhill for about an hour to (4364ft) and then a long stiff climb to Alp Bovine (6519ft) although the last mile or so was a gentle uphill traverse across grass pasture with some beautiful larch trees.

The refuge at Alp Bovine was closed up and no refreshments available so after a short climb beyond the building, we continued on a long gentle downhill stretch to Col de la Forclaz (5006ft) where we stopped for a beer. The restaurant looked very inviting but as we were so early, we decided that we should try to reach the Refuge du Col de Balme which was three hours away. So we set off downhill towards Le Peuty (4357ft).

We stopped in a clearing above Le Peuty to phone ahead to the refuge to discover that it was closed. So back to Plan A and a night in Trient.

From the guide books, I had chosen the Gîte La Gardienne but Eileen who we met as we entered Trient suggested the Relais du Mont Blanc (the Gîte La Gardienne it looked as though it might be closed anyway) so we walked down to find that they had spaces available at the Relais du Mont Blanc but only in the dortoir. We had first met Eileen (an Irish girl) at the Rifugio Elena. We went to the bar to order some beers and it was at this point that Tom remembered that he had had lunch at the relais in 2010 when cycling from Chamonix. He had previously mentioned how good this lunch was. Although it was almost 2.30pm when we arrived at the relais we booked four Salade de Montagnes and a litre of white wine, Sat outside in bright sunshine drinking our beers and it wasn’t long before an enormous plate of cold ham and various cheeses arrived.

After an excellent lunch, I had a nice hot shower and washed some clothes and then went back to the veranda for more wine. We had an enjoyable dinner with charcuterie and salad, beef and rice and then ice cream, all with quite a lot of wine. There were some 95 people staying in the relais overnight and some were feeling quite jolly. I had a coffee before going up to bed at around 9.30pm. I read briefly and then slept very well but woke up about 2.00am to go to the loo and didn’t sleep well afterwards. . Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner and all drinks was 102.50 Euros each. A consequence of lunch, wine and being in Switzerland.

TMB Day 9 – Tuesday 13th September 20110

Trient (4196ft) to Refuge du Lac Blanc (7717ft)

Ascent 6754ft; Descent 5524ft; 10.5 miles

Total time 10 hrs 25 mins

I woke up about 6.15am so decided to get up. Breakfast had started at 6.30am so we went straight into breakfast at about 6.45am. Cereal, yoghurt, bread, butter and jam with café au lait. We set off at about 7.35am up the road below the church and into La Peuty. Turned off the road at about 8.00am and then spent some 90 minutes zigzagging up through the trees. Then an uphill but gentle contour path for the next 30 minutes, which brought us to Col de Balme (7188ft) and the closed refuge.

Tom and I waited a short while for Ray, Richard, Anna and Nils who were walking with us to arrive. After a short rest, we set off down to the Col des Posettes (6552ft). It was here that we made a mistake as instead of taking the right hand path up to the Aiguilles de Posettes, we took the left hand path that went on a level path below the Aiguilles. After some 30 minutes, we saw a sign up to the Aiguilles de Posettes at a point where our path was heading downhill (Tom had gone past the sign and had to retrace his steps uphill).

We reached the top of the ridge some 30 minutes later and realised that we would need to turn back to go to the high point on the Aiguilles so we turned left and downhill towards Tre-Le-Champs. On reflection, we should perhaps have gone straight on at the turn up to the Aiguilles des Posettes but firstly I had wanted to keep as near as possible to the planned route and secondly, the guide book indicated that this path would take us down to Le Tour and what I thought might be a climb back up to Tre-Le-Champs.

It was 1.00pm before we decided to stop for lunch and we still hadn’t reached Tre-Le-Champ, which was three hours short of the refuge. However, we still had plenty of time to get there before dinner was served at 6.45am (I had called ahead to reserve spaces for us). We sat around until about 1.30pm before setting off again down to Tre-Le-Champ.

We stopped at the Auberge La Boerne (4649ft) and had a couple of beers. Richard and Ray had some myrtle tart and ice cream. Both Richard and Ray were quite tired so we sat around in the shade of umbrella for almost an hour. We started off again at about 3.00pm steeply for some time before reaching the bottom of the ladders. Tom, Anna and Nils had got there slightly earlier than the rest of us. Whilst at the bottom we saw Chamois on the rocks above.

Anna and Nils went up the ladder section first followed by me with Tom bringing up the rear. No real problems although one soon ran out of breathe as one could climb so much faster than on foot. The Trailblazer guidebook says, “the longest ladder is about 30 metres up a sheer rock face”. This is absolutely rubbish and nowhere is there a section of ladder much longer than 10 metres. Nevertheless it took us some 45 minutes to get Tete aux Vents

(6995ft). Tom, Nils and I headed off towards the Refuge de Lac Blanc (7717ft) at about 5.15am leaving Richard, Ray and Anna to rest a little longer at the Tete aux Vents. Nils got very close to some Chamois beside the lower lake. I had gone round the right hand side of the lake to take a photograph of Mont Blanc.

We arrived at the refuge at about 6pm. Tom and I had a large beer each but too many people queuing for the showers for us to get one before dinner which was at 6.45pm. Anna, Richard and ray arrived at 6.30pm so very little time to do anything before dinner.

Again we had an excellent meal of soup with cheese, pasta and pork cheek with mushrooms followed by pears and chocolate sauce. All with some white and red wine. I went off and had a shower (not very hot) before coming back upstairs to the bar for a coffee and to write my diary before going up to be. The refuge was very small and was full so both showers and toilets were constantly busy. Our rucksacks had to be left downstairs where there were lockers for securing our gear. Total cost for the refuge including bed, breakfast and dinner and all drinks was 60 Euros each.

TMB Day 10 – Wednesday 14th September 2011

Refuge du Lac Blanc (7717ft) to Le Brevent (8287ft)

Ascent 2558ft; Descent 1770ft; 8 miles

Total time 5 hrs

We were up at about 6.45am and at breakfast at 7.15am, letting those who wanted to get away early to use the toilets etc. before we stirred. Breakfast of orange juice, bread, butter and jam and a piece of homemade fruit cake plus café au lait. We packed after breakfast in the rather small area (well for 25 people all trying to pack at once) outside the showers and toilets.

All ready for off at about 8.15am. Once again we were joined by Anna and Nils. The day was cloudy and we were often walking through mist although not so thick that one couldn’t see the person in front of you. We saw several Chamois on the way down as we had also done close to the refuge the previous evening. We arrived at Flegere at about 10.00am and had a Chocolat Chaud in the mist.

We set off from Flegere at about 10.30am on a long contour path which occasionally went steeply downhill followed by a gradual ascent. Anna’s blisters were beginning to hurt quite badly so when we reached the Col de Plan Praz (6562ft) at about 11.30am, she walked down to the cable car to catch it up to Le Brevent where she would meet us later.

We continued up steeply for the best part of 45 to 60 minutes before reaching the Col de Brevent (7769ft) at about 12.30pm. No sight of Mont Blanc as we were still in cloud so no chance of repeating some of the photographs that I had taken the previous year whilst walking the GR5. We stopped briefly before heading up to Le Brevent (8287ft) where we arrived at about 1.15pm.

Catastrophe! No Beer! The restaurant and bar looked as though they were in the process of being closed before the start of the ski season. So we had a coca cola and decided that we didn’t want to stop for lunch in the mist. Tom was going to catch the cable car back to Chamonix as he had to go and fetch his bicycle from Les Bossons outside Chamonix and Anna’s feet were such that she really needed to catch the cable car as well. So we made a unanimous decision to head down to Chamonix in the cable car for beer and lunch. Headed for the cable car and didn’t have to wait very long before we were out of the clouds with Mont Blanc clearly visible. We arrived at the Hotel Chamonix at about 2.15pm, checked in and went off for lunch. There weren’t any rooms for either Anna or Nils but the lady at the hotel made arranged for them and we arranged to meet them in the evening for a last dinner. We had a large beer at the restaurant and all ate Moules Mariniere and Frites all with a couple of glasses of white wine.

Tom headed up to Les Bossons to fetch his bicycle and I walked round Chamonix in brilliant sunshine with excellent views of Mont Blanc and then went back to the hotel whilst Richard and Ray went off to do some shopping. I had a shower and shave and then realised that I had left my fleece at the restaurant. I recovered the fleece and by the time I got back to the hotel, Tom had arrived back complete with bicycle and a second (smaller) rucksack. I had a sleep before we met up with the others including Anna and Nils at about 7.00pm. Off to the Elevation bar for a couple of beers and then to Le Bergerie restaurant where we all had a good meal. Mark, a friend of Tom’s had arranged to meet up with us after dinner and he joined us when we went to another bar for a last drink before going back to the hotel. Tom, Mark, Anna and Nils stayed up a little later. The total cost of lunch, hotel and dinner was some 116 Euros but this didn’t include the drinks at various bars.

TMB Day 11 – Thursday 15th September 2011

Chamonix to Luton

We were up at about 7.00am and packed and ready for the Alpybus at 7.30am. I went across the road for a quick coffee and also bought four Pain au Chocolat for us to eat in the bus. The bus was a little late arriving but we were soon on our way picking up another 8 people including one from Les Houches before getting on our way. The check in desk was due to open at 8.45am but it was about 9.15am when we arrived at the airport. However, checking in was very efficient apart from the signs which appeared to indicate we should go right when we needed to go left! We said goodbye to Tom who was catching a different flight back to London. We were through security and into duty free relatively smoothly. Even more efficient at Luton (surprisingly) and we had collected our rucksacks and the car and were on the motorway by about 12.10pm having landed at 11.25pm. And so ended another thoroughly enjoyable or should I say fantastic walking trip. The Alpybus had cost us 23.5 Euros each from Chamonix to Geneva Airport.

By Dick Everard ()