Jebel Toubkal Circuit

The long, thin spine of the Atlas Mountains rises abruptly from the baking plains of North Morocco to heights of over 4,000m (13,000ft).

These tribal areas used to be so wild and remote that the influence of the Moroccan Sultanate often depended on the goodwill of the local strongmen at the time. Each village or valley was its own little state, even when some warlord was extracting tribute from it. The valleys are still remote, and often seem unchanged since mediaeval times, the need for their fortifications not long past.  Their Berber inhabitants retain their rugged independence and the rough charm of mountain people. Rather than an armed escort, however, the modern traveller will take a Berber guide, muleteers and perhaps a cook. 

Jebel Toubkal is, at 4167m (13,750 ft), North Africa's highest mountain, and the five plus day circuit around the great ridges of its massif crosses three passes of over 3550m (approaching 12,000ft). The circuit starts in the mountain village of Imlil, which nestles among walnut groves beneath its kasbah (castle), now a thoughtfully restored little hotel, at the junction of two rushing streams.

The walk begins with a long, steady climb up a side valley to the Tizi n'Tamatert pass at 2,280m (7,500 ft). It path winds through traditional mud bricked Berber villages and tiny terraced, irrigated fields of wheat and two-crop maize, a different world from the breeze-blocked tourist prosperity of the lower valley, then enters scented, stunted pine forests, eventually emerging rather suddenly at the pass with its splendid views. It then follows the contours for several hours, so smoothly that you are free to concentrate on the unfolding views. The vegetation has now shifted to the tussocks of tough grasses and small shrubs clinging to bare earth which characterise the high mountains.

Beyond the remains of long-exhausted little goldmines, the campsite perches on a stony promontory across the valley from the noisy village of Tacheddirt.

The next morning's goal, a jagged, craggy, 3550 m (nearly 12,000 ft) ridge, looms way above. The 3 3/4 hour trudge up what becomes a massive, steep scree slope, is tough. It then plunges into a deep chasm, scree becoming tussocky, struggling grass interspersed with low, spiky shrubs, broom and miniature juniper. The campsite in the Tifni valley far below is perfect, a cropped little terrace beside the clear stream.

The third day is memorably beautiful, a steady climb up a lovely valley to the Ououraine pass and a long descent into the superb Tisgui valley and, eventually, the village of Amsouzert, hidden deep in the valley.

The fourth day's 3 1/2 hour walk up the beautiful valley toward the famous Lac d'Ifni is superb.  Ancient Berber hamlets nestle timelessly among little terraces and walnut trees which give way abruptly, where the irrigation stops, to stark, barren hillsides.

The top of the valley is blocked by a vast wall of black lava blocks, which bring the fertile orchards to an abrupt halt and are clearly the end of a not-so-ancient flow. Across an area of vast cracked boulders is the first, unforgettable view of the dark turquoise waters of the Lac d'Ifni, trapped far below between the cliffs of the valley side and the lava dump. 

The serious business now begins, a two-hour haul up an increasingly steep, wild gorge, round vast boulders beneath spikes of rock which recede like the spires of a Hindu temple to the skyline far, far away. Unless you press on and over to the Jebel Toubkal Refuge, your campsite will be a scrap of ground between mansion-sized boulders, a scene of utter desolation.

The next day's 3 hour scramble up to the 3,600m Tizi n'Ouanoums pass is superb. Long views out to the Jebel Siroua range and the Sahara open up and then vanish again. Across the col, a long, cautious descent gets you to the modern warmth of the Jebel Toubkal Refuge. You will be up early for the next day's assault on the summit of Jebel Toubkal. This is a dreary three hour slog, clambering over icy rock, crossing the all too aptly named Field of Boulders and zig-zagging up ramps of broken lava and an endless, imperial sized, scree slope. You get the idea. Eventually, you gain the main ridge and a majestic view north-east, across the chasm of the Tisgui valley. The final pull to the top is likely to be slow and breathless. The peak is often cold and windy, but the 360? views are as exciting as could be expected.

 The final day is one of the very best, a beautiful, gradual climb up the western side of the valley. At the Agazin pass, drink in a final view back up the valley to Toubkal. Then look across the Ouarzane valley to the sharp cliffs of the high Tazughart Plateau. A long descent down a hugh scree slope, taking in 66 zig-zagged bends, gets you to a long, delightful walk down into rugged valleys, past a grand waterfall, through a belt of boulders and gnarled juniper trees, and past hamlets of shepherds' huts. A long traverse, as the river falls away into a deep gorge, gets you to the roadhead village of Ivkoubeline  and your final night.  Alternatively, you could walk down from the Refuge to the Kazbah de Toubkal in a few hours to complete an exact circuit.

Great walks can also be made around Kasbah de Toubkal.

This is a tough walk at some altitude, so come prepared.

www.tourdust.com organise an expedition here : we have travelled with Tourdust, and were delighted. They were very nice and flexible to deal with, and evidently cared about quality, as their walk was meticulously prepared and our support team were outstanding in every way. We are proud to be their partners.​

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For more information and photos, including detailed practical information and some warnings, see our Jebel Toubkal Area walk page.