M'goun Massif

The M’Goun range, at the heart of the High Atlas, is remoter and lesser known than the Toubkal area, but a gem nonetheless and the great range’s second most popular trekking area. Its high point, Jebel M’Goun (4,071m) (? - there is inconsistency here!), is the second-highest peak in north Africa, and one of Morocco’s’ sacred peaks. Very different in nature from (and Walkopedia thinks more beautiful than) the Toubkal area, M’Goun is largely eroded sandstone and limestone: think deep, colourful and dramatic gorges separating high and thrilling ridges and escarpments. It is a touch less harsh than other Atlas areas, with a bit more vegetation and more prosperous valleys.

Here you can trek through violently-cut gorges (some requiring wading and said to be only 3m wide in places), across barren slopes of scree and along heavily-tilled valleys and visit fascinatingly unspoilt Berber villages – not surprising given some still have no road access, but still somehow remarkable so near Europe. The region gives an extraordinary view on a characterful if hard way of life, which has changed little in hundreds of years. The Berbers are thought to be the indigenous inhabitants of the area, and have always been fiercely independent, living in fortified mud-brick villages (look out for tower-houses) in irrigated valleys. Some still practice transhumance, moving with their flocks to high pastures in summer.

The landscape can be orientated around a main ridge which includes the highest peaks. The accessible Bougmez valley to the north is the main trek-head, with Tabant the main trekking town and smaller Agouti a good base as well. Its fertile, even luxuriant bottom, surrounded by dry, dramatic mountains, supports a rich Berber culture, making it a good place to prepare for or recover from your trek. You can also start walking from roadheads to the south and north-west.

There is a huge selection of walking (some would argue better than the Jebel Toubkal area), from tough multi-dayers to day-explorations.

Treks: traverses and circuits

The various multi-day circuits south of the Bougmez valley, taking in the high M’Goun ridge, are well used, with good cause. The mix of the drama of high peaks, ridges and passes with deep and pleasing valleys nestling traditional Berber settlements, taking in gorges, the Tarkeddidt or Tessaout Plateaux and some outlandish landscape, is inspiring.

This can be extended to make various forms of traverse across the range, again taking in Jebel M’goun itself if you have the energy.

From historic Telouet in the south-west, and Anmiter further into the mountains, you can walk to the Tamda Lakes, or on a multi-day crossing (or indeed circuit) on to World Heritage Site Megdaz and down to the beautiful, fascinating, remote Tessaout Valley.

Day walks

You can make a superb day walk up the beautiful Arous valley south from Agouti in the Bougmez valley in the north, walking through villages and irrigated fields, then up to the high pastures of the wide upper valley and further on to the narrow, high-walked Arous Gorge. A varied 5-7hr+ stunner.

There is interesting day walking to be done around the extremely pleasent Bougmez valley to the north, for a good taste of traditional Berber life. For instance the 3 hour village circuit, which the Trailblazer guide has christened the Randonnée du Thé.

In the south-west of the range is the long, winding, fertile Tassaout valley, where you can make a selection of day walks, including up a side valley to the historic, World Heritage Site village of Megdaz in its marvellous green bowl, or walk the length of the upper valley, as Walkopedia did, in 2 days.

www.tourdust.com organise an expedition here: we travelled with them, making a high traverse, and were delighted. They were very nice and flexible to deal with, and evidently cared about quality, as their walk was meticulously prepared and our support team were outstanding in every way. We are proud to be their partners.

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