Across the Selma Pateau (E35)

This fine but demanding trek along ancient donkey trails crosses the rough Selma Plateau in the Eastern Hajar, from Wadi Bani Khalid to Wadi Tiwi on the coast (or vice versa).

At 28km long, and involving more than 1,800m of altitude difference bottom to top, this is a long and tiring route. While it can be done in 14hours with a day pack, most people will camp up on the plateau and make 2 days of it. There is a high dirt track, and at least one good flat campsite nearby, so you can meet support vehicles if you want, and have camping kit brought in, or make a one-day walk if time or desire is limited.

Starting at beautiful, dramatic Wadi Bani Khalid deep in the southern slopes of the Hajar, the trail climbs from Miqil (at 600m) above the canyon, looking down on some lovely pools, then ascends pretty quickly to around 2,150m, a demanding, even relentless slog.

Thereafter, it winds its way across the grand, harsh, high Selma Plateau, dropping to the dirt track on the coastal side where people tend to camp on a nearly gravel flat. Walkopedia started its time by camping here and loved it. A fine if harsh spot.

Day 2 is a walking joy, a yomp of two halves. The first is an enjoyable wind across the gradually descending upper slopes, traversing hillsides, then making short, sharp descents. Around you are rocky flats and the broken heads of what became deep canyons. In the distance is the blue, blue sea. It is thrilling walking.

You may well see wild donkeys, and Walkopedia met a huge herd of goats driven by a tough-looking man and woman.

Shallow(ish) wadis turn into canyons, then you are in the upper reaches, then on the lip, of the tremendous Tiwi canyon, getting on for 1,000m above its floor. A careful zig-zag down a near-sheer notch gets you down onto the steep mid-canyon sides, from which you can see that you have taken the only way through the huge upper cliffs. Then it is a long, hot, tiring descent to the villages of Sooee and Al Aqur and their palms and groves in the canyon bottom. There is a delightful swimming pool just above Sooee.

You can organise donkey transport if you wish, which could add an enjoyable freedom to the expedition.

The trail is hard to find in some places, so keep an eye open for the markings.

You can make shorter walks at either end – or indeed, for the track on the high-ground.

Oman Trekking (Explorer) and Adventure Trekking in Oman (Anne Dale and Gerry Hadwin) have worthwhile sections on some of this walk. Recommended. Find relevant books on Amazon.

Please help us by making suggestions and sending photos! Thank you!

For more information and photos, including detailed practical information and some warnings, see our Eastern Hajar Mountains walk page.