PR12 - Boca da Corrida to Boca da Encumeada

The PR12 trail, sometimes called the Camino Real da Encumeada, runs across the mountains at the south-west end of the great horseshoe of Madeira’s highest peaks, from Boca da Corrida in the south to Boca da Encumeada at the heart of the island, or vice versa. The Sunflower guide say “if we had to choose our favourite mountain walk … it would probably be this one”.

Much of the trail was the main mule track across the mountains before roads were built, and much of it is therefore easy walking on a well-graded and often path. It is a popular route, and in the main guidebooks, so very well maintained with quite a bit of paving and steps, but not so as to spoil your time there.

Its course is amazing, winding above impossible cliffs and along knife-edge ridges, with enormous views of the crazed, thrilling centre of the island, into the vast abyss-gorges to either side and across to Paul da Serra to the north-west and Pico de Arieiro to the east, later on to the high central summit ridge to its north.

The trail crosses a couple of passes before reaching the trail junction at Boca do Cerro, where those who want to climb Pico Grande turn off north-east. It then passes below the great cliffs of Pico Grande before traversing across the steep slopes below the high central ridge to Encumeada.

This is the approach walk for two of the four ways of climbing Pico Grande.

This is a delightful walk, not that demanding on the ups and downs, although you will feel exercised by the end. It is in real mountains with uncertain weather, so come fully prepared.

Transport: if you do part of this trail as a there-and-back walks, you can drive to either roadhead. Otherwise, you will need to deal with the infrequent bus system, and/or swallow a taxi.

The excellent Walking in Madeira by Paddy Dillon for Cicerone and Sunflower’s Madeira Car Tours and Walks describe this walk. Find these and other books on Amazon.

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See our Madeira page for further information on Madeira and walking photos, and detailed practical information, including weather and transport.