La Geria; Montana Tinasoria

The area known as La Geria is the main home of Lanzarote’s most most-recognisable feature, the fields, even hillsides, of horseshoes of stones protecting vines in depressions filled with black volcanic gravel to help retain moisture and even, amazingly, collect it from the night-time winds in a system known as enarenado. They form captivating patterns en masse.

La Geria lies in the south-western centre of the island. To its south-east is the ridge which includes the old volcanoes Tinasoria and Guardilama, and to the north by the vast sea of black lava which overwhelmed much of the area in the 1730s from the cataclysmic eruption of the Timanfaya volcanic complex.

There are various dirt roads and paths which you could wander to explore the area.

There is one outstanding, unmissable circuit, heading east from Uga on the GR131 trail, along a dirt road which climbs steadily through a fascinating sweep of enarenado vine-fields to the pass between Montaña Tinasoria and the higher (605m), steeper, fin of Guardilama to its north, which keen walkers should bag. You then swing back along the ridge towards Uga, climbing Tinasoria en route.

The track starts heading straight and level through ordinary, slightly scruffy farmland. Then the enarenado begins and the excitement ratchets up. Walkopedia was there in mid March, when the vines had just woken up and begun to issue new shoots, so it looked darker than it would in summer, but this was made up for by wildflowers (where permitted), and occasional bursts of incongruously lush pink [judas tree?] blossom and bright new fig leaves from behind larger stone walls.

As the hillside gets steeper, the extent of the enarenado and the beauty and outlandishness of its patterns become increasingly apparent. This is thrilling walking. You can now see northward over the Geria and on across endless crazed miles of lava towards the Timanfaya volcanoes. Guarilama comes into focus, its lower flanks a rich, dark/pale green tapestry of undulating enarenado, with its surprisingly green upper slopes providing contrast.

At the pass, the keen can turn left to bag Guardilama; otherwise, you turn right on the second track up into the enarenado in the basin sheltered by the ridges of the old crater rim that is Tinasoria, joining the southern ridge and climbing steadily to the high western end. Views galore of the south-east of the island, and across the lava to Timanfaya. Really extraordinarily beautiful and interesting. You drop to a little plateau-meadow, awash in mid-March with wildflowers which manage to be fragrant in a stiff breeze! (It was all much drier in late February 2024)

A short but steep descent leads you south-west to the next delight, the old crater of Mojon, which has been farmed for centuries, as are so many old craters here, as they are fertile and often damper that the surrounding landscape! It was beautiful in the late afternoon light when Walko was there. A slightly boring dirt track gets you back to town. Alternatively, you can circle around the rest of the Tinasoria rim and rejoin the track you came up.

What a delight!

This walk is some 7.5km/2.5 hrs from the middle of Uga, so a bit less if you have a car and park at the start of the track; more – another steep 2km? – if you add in Guardilama.

Guardilama is a higher (by 100m), steeper, narrower and generally more dramatic prospect that Tinasoria, with even bigger views, so of more interest to peak baggers; but, if walking just one of them, Walkopedia would go for Tinasoria, as its integration into the enarenado and the beauty and unlikeliness of its meadow-top at the right time make it unique. Guardilama can also be climbed from La Asomada to the east, starting from higher. It would make a great traverse if transport could be fixed.

This is strenuous walking in dry mountains. Come fully prepared, including carrying enough water.

Lanzarote – Sunflower guides: 31 varied walks, including these. Recommended. Find relevant books on Amazon.

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