Tate-yama and Tsurugi-dake

One of the very best that Japan has to offer:  an ascent of Tate-yama in the North Alps, one of Japan's three holiest Buddhist mountains and over 3,000m and on the edge of a huge dormant volcanic caldera to boot; then beautiful, tough Tsurugi, said to be the most demanding of Japan's 100 Famous Mountains and much loved by walkers.

The walk takes 2 days and is a form of circuit, starting and ending at the resort of Murodo (itself on a lava plateau). You could just climb Tate-yama in a day. And there are good walks around Murodo if you feel like acclimatizing first

You will be above the tree line throughout, so think alpine vegetation and permanent views.

Tate-yama is some 550m above Murodo, and an easyish walk (don't feel diminished if you meet groups of school children...). The views of the high Alps all around are, needless to say, astounding.  Thereafter you lose some of the crowds, but the walking remains superb. Overnight at Kenzan-so hut, where you can leave your main baggage as you will be coming back. Then it is time for the challenge: Tsuguri-dake is some 500m higher, and involves both steep up-and-down scrambling and some gut-wrenching teetering over chasms, but with good chains and ladder to help. You will feel like a god and have boasting rights if you get there. Oh, and, take the time to enjoy the fantastic views.

This is tough walking in remote mountains, where altitude can cause problems and heights horrify the vulnerable. Come fully prepared.

Easy(ish) rail access from Tokyo, Osaka etc. A section in Lonely Planet's Trekking in Japan gives good practicalities. And a chapter in the charming Trekking in Japan: an Adventurer's Guide to the Mountain Trails by Paul Hunt.

Best months: July to mid-October.

Have a look at the dreaded TripAdvisor . You should get good, current views on this area.

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