GR20

The GR20 is one of Europe's most exhilarating - and most celebrated (famously infamous) - footpaths, a tough trek in magnificent mountains with scrambles to horrify those of a nervous disposition. It runs from the island's northern coastline along the 180km length of its central mountain spine, over a series of Alpine peaks topped by 2,710m Monte Cinto.

Along the way are innumerable aretes, ridges, and relentless ascents/descents. The most demanding are assisted: some, the Cirque de Solitude in particular, can be heart-stopping and are genuinely dangerous, and during wet weather (of which there is plenty, with thunderstorms coming thick and fast in high summer and howling winter weather) should only be tackled by the very experienced. Thanks to a series of chains and ladders it is, at least in summer, accessible to anyone fit, without the need for special climbing skills or gear. This is of course one of its main attractions: that it offers levels of high mountain access that are rare for the (fit!) walker.

There is, then, some basis for the route's reputation as a monster, although there are alternatives to some of the toughest sections. But, with the refuges often splendidly sited, and abundant pools, plus the odd comfortable gite, there are opportunities to relax and enjoy the experience when the weather smiles.

Corsica, a part of France since the late 1750s and birthplace of its most famous son, Napoleon, still maintains its own special identity. The people still speak their ancient tongue; the island is French by administration, Italian and north African by emotion and location; the atmosphere is relatively unsullied by modernization. Corsica's rugged terrain, much of its higher reaches bare rock, is mistakable for something rather more alien. This is truly wild, unspoiled mountain country, rich with the scent of herbs and cooled by high forests and riddled with ancient footpaths. All of this wild "otherness" is communicated in the GR20, leading you through its most isolated, magnificent areas. Note: as at late 2016, the famous Cirque de Solitude is closed as a result of landslip. There is an alternative route. Check the current position.

On its central spine Corsica is often astonishingly beautiful, albeit harsh: outlandish towers and cliffs above ravishing lakes. Add in glimpses of far-off sea and the maquis heathland on the lower slopes, with its mingled heady aromas and varied and vivid graduations of colour - rosemary, thyme, fennel, lavender and myrtle; rock roses, strawberry trees, holm oaks, cork oaks and magnificent indigenous Corsica pine. The trek leaves the remoter mountain passes to plot near to the towns of Monte Cinto, Monte Rotondo and Monte d'Oro.

Fauna includes the mountain goat, the mouflon, wild boar, harmless but hissy snakes, huge kites and tiny finches, hoopoes, the 2.7m-wingspan bearded vulture, and noble, graceful eagles.

It is not just the scrambles that make this a tough undertaking. The weather is often foul - we mean really horrible - and the huts basic, cramped and crowded, especially when it is wet. Carry a tent, but, while camping is delightful in good weather, it can quickly get miserable in bad. All this can make the GR20 an exhilarating challenge, if you enjoy that sort of thing (it is a lot of peoples? best-ever walk), but quite a lot of days can take you way beyond what would be considered fun by rational people.

The whole route will take over two weeks of spectacular isolation and remarkable views. The northern section (GR20 Nord) can be done in a bit over a week, but is the toughest part. GR20 Sud is (relatively) gentler. GR20 can be walked north to south (most people) or south to north.

See also Paul Hadaway's thoughts below.

We have a lot of helpful practical information and tips about this walk, covering everything from the best books and maps, to timing and weather, geting there, possible problems, whether you need a guide and where to find them, and useful websites. This section is only open to members.

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