GR4 (Verdon Gorge)

Lower Provence: For the longest trail, start at Grasse, an idyllic, ancient town, from which many trails lead out into the surrounding aromatic fields, the GR4 heads first in a steady climb to the Plateau de la Malle, with gorgeous views down to the beautiful Mediterranean coastline. The glimmering modernity of Cannes in the distance is sharply juxtaposed with the wild terrain in which you are suddenly immersed.

An easy climb through beautiful woodland gets you to fine views at Entrevaux. This splendid old town was fortified in the seventeenth century, and maintains much of its appeal. A particular treat is the citadel perched high atop a rocky outcrop.

A shorter walk-in is the day walk from St-André-les-Alpes to Castellane, also through lovely countryside.

Another day walk, taking in the lower Verdon Gorge, heads out of La Palud on an increasingly impressive route traversing round the Cime de Barbin, mainly on good, forest tracks. It is worth it. Views open up spectacularly, the huge Lac de Sainte Croix shimmering far below. This trail can be done independently of the Verdon Gorge proper, and is beautiful in its own right, but it does miss out on the majesty of the plunging walls and rushing waters, even its ingenious path. Perhaps it is a best-alternative if you have children not yet ready for the gorge?s ladders and tunnels.

The onward track is novel for its contrast to the gorge's enclosed, looming walls. Climb a high ridge through rocky, mixed forest. Improbably steep hillsides, on which the trail is indistinctly marked, wind their way down to a ravine and the gorge's road, taking you finally to Moustiers Sainte Marie with its sumptuous patisseries to reward your efforts.

A voluntary extra day finds the Plateau de Valensole, emerging from the high hills into gentler terrain of lavender, grapes and apples, and old truffle-rich oak forest. You decant into a peaceful medieval town of Roman heritage, Riez la Romaine.

Day walks along the Verdon Gorge's rim are very feasible, although they often follow the (admittedly scenic) roads. All roads have regular, exhilarating viewpoints, some following closely the very edge of the gorge (e.g. the northern rim, with some spectacular views; the road itself is narrow and much less frequented than the other roads).