Vermillion Cliffs, Coyote Buttes

The Vermilion Cliffs are a long escarpment, in places approaching 1,000m high, of endless layers of often bright red sandstone formed from ancient silt and desert sand dunes. They are the second "step" up in the Grand Staircase. They extend from Utah into Arizona.

The Vermilion Cliffs National Monument sits in the extreme north of Arizona (it is also part of the larger Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness, which extends into Utah). It includes the Paria Plateau and the Coyote Buttes; it’s stars are the unmissable Wave and the amazing Buckskin Gulch and Paria Canyon slot canyons. 

While this is tough desert, there are areas of vegetation in the canyon bottoms, and raptors, bighorn sheep, mountain lions to be found. There are hundreds of remains of Native American pueblos in the area. Old settler routes run below the cliffs.

There is fine walking to be had along the tops of the cliffs. 

The Coyote Buttes are an area of exposed Navajo sandstone slickrock which are eroded into some fantastical shapes - spires known as hoodoos, cones, arches and steeps slots - and include the famous Wave formation.

There is some stunning walking to be had in the Buttes, although they are quite hard of access: the Wire Pass trailhead (through extraordinary Wire Pass to the even weirder Buckskin Gulch) and the nearby Notch are the best accesses.

Both the northern section (which contains The Wave and the other best-known formations) and southern section of the Buttes require access permits, with (as at 2019) a limit of 20 people a day, 10 way in advance and 10 the day before.

See here and here for more information and ideas.

This can be tough walking in dry, remote desert and canyons with uncertain weather. Come fully prepared, and carry enough water. Flash floods in narrow canyons are a particular, deadly risk.

There are excellent books on these areas. Find relevant books on Amazon.

Our friends and partners Responsible Travel have a selection of walking and other holidays in South-west USA. You should get good ideas, perhaps for something you hadn’t thought of…

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