Pembrokeshire Coast Path

This lesser-known but marvellous 186-mile trail wanders along and around a magnificent and varied array of cliffs, beaches, woodlands, heaths, moors, valleys and pastures. It passes farms, ancient churches, castles, fishing villages, Georgian resort towns ("Admiral Nelson and Lord and Lady Hamilton stayed here" - the great ménage visited Tenby), iron-age forts and much more. 

The path can be broadly categorized into a softer "Norman" south and a wilder, "Welsh" north, but that is a bit of an oversimplification: while it is fair to say that the northern half of the Path has wilder country, higher cliffs, greater drama and more demanding walking, the 'gentler' south still contains thrilling walking on beautiful and fascinating coastline, passing exceptional historic sites. The greater concentration of caravan sites, holiday homes and the like does reduce the pleasure of some southern sections. 

The coast here is rich in marine mammals - grey seals, porpoise and dolphins. Squirrel, deer and bats abound, and you may see an otter, especially around Bosherston lily ponds. Snakes, slow worms, lizards and a multitude of birds are to be met, with the coastal cliffs spotted with breeding gulls in season. Enjoy a huge range of seabirds, including puffins, guillemots and razorbills, and also acrobatic choughs and raptors. Likewise, the path is carpeted with flowers in spring and early summer - the coast is famously well provided this way. The Trailblazer guide has excellent sections (including photos) on the mammals and flowers you should meet. 

There are numerous hugely historic and atmospheric sites and towns (a city, even) along the way, from St David's magical Norman cathedral, to old Pembroke huddled below its Norman castle, birthplace of King Henry VII, the first Tudor monarch, to the delightful Georgian and Victorian resort of Tenby inside its mediaeval walls. 

One of the delights of the path is that, unless you plan to do the entire length, you can choose the sections that suit your tastes best. The Trailblazer book is particularly helpful here, with a lot of planning information, including ideas for day and weekend walks, as well as longer expeditions. 

Unless tackling the entire path (assume two weeks or so at a reasonable pace), you will need to select a stretch to walk. The best sections are more than arguably from  St Dogmael's in the far north to St David's, and from Dale out to the wild west of Milford Haven round the great bite of St Bride's Bay to (again) St David's. As we describe below, there are also firms that will take you on selected "best of the path" expeditions. 

While the path is generally recommended to be walked south to north, this is not mandatory. 

There are numerous shorter multi-day options (weekend or more), as well as exceptional day-walks. For instance:

• from Freshwater East past the beautiful Barafundle Bay and Stackpole Head to the otter-haunted lily-ponds at Bosherton.

• The Dale Peninsula, with scenery ranging from woodland to rough stuff to the huge expanse of Marloes Sounds.

• Nolton Haven to Solva along wild,magnificent coastline on the north of St Bride's Bay

• St Justinian's to Abereiddy, around the superb St David's peninsula

• Said to be the most tiring but spectacular stretch of all, the huge cliffs between Newport and Poppit Sands 

The wild scenery of St David's peninsula is particularly suited to longer (weekend) walks. 

There are various things to think about taking time out to do while en route, in addition to enjoying the towns and sites on the Path itself. The Preseli hills with their old trails through antiquity-laden landscape, the source of Stonehenge's great slabs, are particularly rewarding. As is a boat excursion out to one of the off-shore islands, to view the seething birdlife and with luck a seal or two. 

Have a look at TripAdvisor - there are a multitude of relevant reviews, so you may get good, current views on aspects of this walk, although the usual warning to take a pinch of salt applies.